数字印染技术在褶皱服装设计中的创新应用

摘要

褶皱工艺在褶皱服装设计中发挥着重要作用。褶皱设计亦称皱褶服装设计，是一种高温成型工艺，其发展深受科学技术进步的影响。借助数字印染技术将纹样设计与褶皱工艺相结合，已成为褶皱服装视觉呈现、风格表达与装饰艺术的关键环节。本文梳理了褶皱工艺的历史沿革与技术性能，考察了应用于褶皱工艺的各类造型技法。褶皱工艺的主要创新可归纳为定型技术、缩褶技术与装饰技术三类。文中还讨论了褶皱变化与服装样板之间的关系，以及在褶皱服装上叠加纹样这一工艺所依托的设计思维。依据服装品类与工艺类型的不同，褶皱工艺中的创新设计主要有三种应用路径：几何形服装样板、基础形服装样板以及缩褶技术叠加。本文以中国设计案例说明技术与艺术如何实现融合，可为褶皱服装设计的技术创新提供参考。

Abstract

Pleating technology plays a major role in the design of pleated clothing. Also known as wrinkle clothing design, pleating is a high temperature process that has been significantly influenced by progress in science and technology. The combination of pattern design and pleating through the use of digital printing and dyeing technology has become a key aspect of the visual presentation, embodiment of style, and decorative art associated with pleated clothing. This paper explores the historical background and performance of the technologies used in the pleating process, and examines the various modeling techniques that have been brought to bear. The principal innovations in the pleating process can be divided up into shaping, shrinking, and decorative technologies. The relationship between changes in pleating and clothing patterns is also discussed, together with how design thinking has approached the craft of overlaying patterns on pleated clothing. Depending on the clothing and kind of technology being used, there are three main ways in which innovative design can be applied to the pleating process: to create geometric clothing patterns; to create basic clothing patterns; and through the superposition of shrinking technology. A Chinese design case is presented to illustrate how the integration of technology and art can be realized. This paper may serve as a source of future reference for technological innovation in the design of pleated clothing.